A little tippling under the tree
By Tony Cross
This time of year is stressful. I don’t think I need to delve into the reasons why, but one thing is for sure: Alcohol consumption increases during the holidays. Everyone has his or her reasons, and many are the same, but I’ll tell you mine. Even though I gripe about all the Christmas commercials in every advertisement from mid-October through the new year, the truth is, I like it. I enjoy gift-giving too much; I put an extreme amount of pressure on myself to get the “perfect” gift for my friends and loved ones. If you are like me, I hope these gift ideas will please the budding mixmaster on your list.
Fair Game Beverage Co. Carolina Agricole Rum
375 ml, $23
Distiller Chris Jude from Fair Game Beverage Co. has been in the distilling biz for about two years now, and keeps surprising me with his fantastic new spirits. In June, he released an amber rum made with Panela cane sugar. In September, Fair Game released a very small batch (887 bottles only) of North Carolina’s first rum agricole. Now, rhum agricole (the French term) is typically produced in the Caribbean and translates to “agriculture rum.” Fresh sugarcane is used when making this rum, and Chris gets his from Catoe Farm, in Middendorf, South Carolina. He describes this rum as “slightly sweet, grassy, and just a little bit funky.” I couldn’t agree more. This is a great sipper, and a lovely base for any rum-style cocktail or punch. Ask your local ABC to get you a bottle before they’re all gone!
Ice Cube Trays, Williams-Sonoma
Some might find large ice cube molds a bit odd, or even pretentious. Ice is ice, right? Wrong. Having the wrong type of ice in your glass can definitely ruin your drink. How’s that? Let’s first start with your freezer. If your ice is exposed to different odors from some dinner experiment that you froze back in 2015, those aromas will seep into your ice. Make sure to keep a tidy freezer, and use filtered water. It does make a difference. The style and size of your ice is a crucial element when playing bartender. Shaved ice is wet, and will quickly over-dilute your drink. What’s the point of shelling out extra money for a fine spirit when all you’re going to do is ruin it with bad ice? Easy fix: Take a stroll over to Mayfaire and stop in Williams-Sonoma. In addition to brandied cherries, bitters and my own TONYC syrup, they carry ice molds. Large blocks of ice (think 2×2 inch) keep your fine whiskey cold, while slowly diluting your drink as time travels on.
Yarai Mixing Glass, Koriko Hawthorne Strainer,
Hoffman Barspoon, Cocktailkingdom.com, $77
For the negroni, old-fashioned, or Manhattan lover, this is the gift for them. Let’s start with the mixing glass. The Yarai has many different styles and sizes. I’m recommending their more basic style. It holds 19 ounces, so when ice is added, you can stir a couple of cocktails at a time. The glass is thick, and dishwasher safe. I’ve had mine for almost four years. The barspoon is made from stainless steel, and is very lightweight. Paired with the mixing glass, you’ll be able to stir cocktails with ease. I’m choosing the Koriko strainer for two reasons, the first being it’s a perfect fit into the Yarai glass when you’re about to strain the liquid into the glass. Another reason to pick this strainer is that the coils are tightly wound to catch the smallest of ice granules, herbs or anything else you wouldn’t want floating on top of your shaken cocktail. Bonus use: The two holes above the coils allows you to do a split pour. Go ahead, and show off.
Barolo Chinato, $42
A few years back, I toyed around with the idea of putting a “Baller Manhattan” cocktail on my menu. The thought was to use a high-end rye whiskey, with a touch of hard-to-get absinthe, and the finest vermouth. The vermouth would have been Barolo Chinato. This really is luxury, folks: a D.O.C.G. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) Barolo that’s infused with rhubarb, cardamom, ginger, cinchona bark, cocoa, and spices. This fortified wine is incredible on its own, but pair it with homemade chocolate pudding, and forget about it. Now, back to that Manhattan: The complexity of this vermouth elevates the cocktail to another level. Wine distributing company Bordeaux Fine & Rare can deliver this to any bar and restaurant, but for the home imbiber, an order at ABC must be placed. Needless to say, I opted out of the high-end Manhattan drink, but instead used the Barolo for another drink, The Green Beret, in honor of my father, friends and other ass-kickers of the nation. I have two versions of this cocktail; one is shaken and the other is stirred. Both contain Green Chartreuse. Here’s the recipe of the stirred version that includes Barolo Chinato.
The Green Beret
Green Chartreuse
1 1/2 ounce TOPO Eight Oak Whiskey
3/4 ounce cocoa nib-infused Campari
1/2 ounce Dolin Rouge
1/4 ounce Barolo Chinato
Lemon peel
Take a double old-fashioned glass and rinse it with Green Chartreuse. Do this by pouring the Chartreuse (or misting it) into the glass, swirling it around so it touches almost every interior surface, before tossing it out. Be sure to use the minimal amount, so you do not waste any of this goodness. In a mixing glass (like the Yarai), combine all other ingredients, add ice, and stir until liquid is cold, and proper water dilution is achieved. Place a large cube of ice in your rinsed glass, and strain the liquid from the mixing vessel into the glass. Express the oils from a peel of lemon over the cocktail, dropping the peel into the drink afterward.
Tony Cross is a bartender who runs cocktail catering company Reverie Cocktails in Southern pines. He can also recommend a vitamin supplement for the morning after.
